Santiago and La Coruna

La Coruna and area

We visited our friends Victor and Marnie for 3 days at their home away from home in Santa Cruz, Oleiros, a municipality in the province of A Coruña, Galicia. We had a blast with them – it was like a Magical Mystery Tour! They showed us a round, introduced us to the local culture and to their many cousins that live in the area. Victor’s father was born there and returns often.

Oleiros is the wealthiest municipality in Galicia, with very high living standards, visiable in the public gardens and very careful urban planning. Richard Greer reportedly has a large home there.

Zara’s founder Amancio Ortega left school and moved to A Coruña at the age of 14, as his father was railway worker. Ortega worked as a shop hand for a local shirtmaker where he learned to make clothes by hand. Although he now owns a huge real estate portfolio, he mostly lives with his wife in his apartment in Coruna. His daughter Sandra lives in an apartment next to Victor and Marnie.

This statue represents why people answer the call to return to La Coruna or the feeling of Morriña; homesickness, nostalgia, or a deep, melancholy longing for one’s homeland or past.

Victor’s family owns a bakery business in Santa Cruz and we were thrilled that they arranged a tour for us! No small operation, this location alone employs 50 people. One of the family’s secret recipe is Caraledo.  Almost like a naked cinnamon bun filled with walnuts. So delicious!

Castelo de Santa Cruz is a 16th-century fort on a small island, so picturesque!

The Casa Museo Picasso is the preserved childhood home where Pablo Picasso lived and developed his early artistic skills at ages 9-13 before moving to Barcelona. He sold some of his works right on this street!

The Tower of Hercules is the oldest known Roman lighthouse in the world, dating back to the late 1st century AD. The tower is famously associated with the mythological hero Hercules. As legend would have it, Hercules buried the head of the giant Geryon at the site after a three-day battle.

Our lunch spot in A Coruña was Pulpeira O’Fiuza. This charming eatery specializes in a menu centered around exceptional octopus dishes, specifically the iconic pulpo a la gallega. Of course we tried and loved it; so tender and flavourful!

The Cabo Ortegal Lighthouse is located in Cariño, Galicia, Spain.  The striking red-and-white lighthouse was built in 1984, and is known for its dramatic setting at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and Cantabrian Sea. It is perched on some of the oldest rocks in the world (over 1 billion years old) and offers views of the 613-meter Vixía Herbeira cliffs, the highest in continental Europe. Marnie spotted several goats perched strangely on the ledges so we were thrilled to see some wildlife!

The winding road tour took us through white cattle-grazing fields and into the mystical destination of Santo André de Teixido. This famous pilgrimage village in Cedeira, is renowned for its 16th-18th century sanctuary and dramatic sea cliffs, some of the highest in Europe.

But what intrigued us most, was the legend that “those who do not go in life, go after death” or those who do not go while alive, will go when dead. So, according to legend, if you don’t visit the sanctuary during your lifetime you must return after death as insects, lizards, or other small creatures to fulfill your pilgrimage. That’s one way of getting visitors! Because of this belief, locals traditionally never harm any animals in the area, especially insects and small creatures, to avoid killing a returning soul. We all decided that in 40 years or so the four of us will meet again in the afterlife and high-five that we aren’t ants or lizards! lol

The Sanctuary is a major spiritual site where pilgrims honor St. Andrew. The 18th-century Baroque altarpiece is a key feature.

Another food specialty of the area, Percebes (goose barnacles) are one of Spain’s most prized and expensive seafood delicacies, particularly from the Galicia region in the northwest. They are known for their intense, briny ocean flavor, often described as a mix between lobster, clams, and seawater. Dangerous to harvest, percebes grow on rocky cliffs battered by heavy Atlantic surf, requiring fishermen (percebeiros) to risk their lives at low tide to collect them.

IMG_0352 click here for food demo!

The Percebes were very tasty and didn’t last long with this group! 

What an amazing time we have had in Spain already! We bid adieu to Victor and Marnie this morning and after a 4.5 hour bus ride, we have settled into our hotel in Gijon. We hope you are enjoying our adventure! Thanks for being there!